ABOUT THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS

More than 170 islands comprise this archipelago, lying off mainland Washington at the juncture of the straits of Georgia and Juan de Fuca, and sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by the Olympic Peninsula and Vancouver Island. (There are reputedly an additional 300 rocky "islands" at low tide.)

The San Juan Islands. The islands were once part of a mountain range connecting Washington to Vancouver Island. Eighty-three islands are protected as part of the San Juan Wildlife Refuge, home to seabirds, seals and sea lions. About 90 Orca whales are year round residents of the area.

The four islands served by the Washington State Ferry - Lopez, Orcas, San Juan, and Shaw are the usual destinations for bicycling (there are a number of bicycle rental services) and gentle sightseeing. To reach any of the other islands, about 40 of which are inhabited, you will need to arrange your own transportation.

On the main islands, the farming and fishing communities have been joined by "urban refugees" including many artists, perhaps drawn by the natural beauty and solitude of these islands. During the summer months, the main islands receive as many visitors as they can accommodate, so be sure to book your stay in advance.

Friday Harbor is the business center for the islands, its harbor is now teeming with commercial fishing boats and pleasure yachts. After completing a walk and shopping tour of the town, you'll want to head for the whale overlook at Lime Kiln Park and then visit historic sites at American and English camps to relive island history. You'll take another step back in time with a visit to historic Roche Harbor, once the home of a lime and cement company, where paths are paved with the bricks which lined the lime kilns. San Juan has an area of 55.3 square miles. Population is 7000.